- Raspberry Pi 500 (US) Keyboard
- Raspberry Pi Monitor
- 2x Raspberry Pi 5 27W USB-C Power Supplies
- MicroSD Card
- USB M.2 NVMe Enclosure
- M.2 NVMe Drive
- Micro-HDMI to Standard HDMI 1m Cable
- Raspberry Pi USB 3 Hub
- Real Time Clock and Cabling
- Wireless USB Mouse
- 5 Volt 3 Amp+ Power Bank
- USB-C to USB-C Power Cable
- Lap Top Bag
- Velcro and Similar
The Raspberry Pi 500 Keyboard should use at least the 27W power supply. The Raspberry Pi Monitor should not need as much wattage but getting the same power supply for both makes this easier. The monitor does not come with a power source but it does come with a USB cable.
The MicroSD Card can be 32GB or even smaller, but 64GB or greater provides sufficient room for adding a ton of packages and files.
The USB M.2 NVMe Enclosure should support at least USB 3 and come with its own cable. This along with the M.2 NVMe Drive are considered critical for performance reasons and longevity reasons. MicroSD Cards do not last very long and have a very limited number of writes. The are also particularly slow. The USB M.2 NVMe Enclosure does bring in the inconvenience of more cabling and power power requirements. This cost is well worth it. Especially if you get 2TB or greater storage capacity.
I bought the standard 3 meter HDMI cables. As you might be able to see from the pictures, the cabling is a bit excessive so I recommend selecting only a 1M cable for use as a Lap Top.
The official Raspberry Pi USB 3 Hub is useful for extending the available cables and supports its own power source to reduce the power load from the keyboard. The biggest problem with this is that it is a few centimeters too short.
The Real Time Clock and Cabling and cabling is a bit trickier. The DS3231 Real Time Clock Module for Raspberry Pi works and only needs to be plugged in. The case partially gets in a way and some extensions are needed. That clock is also not very accurate. There are some better real time clocks like the Adafruit DS1307 Real Time Clock and the RV3028 Real-Time Clock, but these require soldering.
A wired mouse is perfectly fine. When it comes to the Lap Top, any form of a Wireless USB Mouse be it WiFi, Bluetooth, or some other form is much more convenient and less troubling.
A 5 Volt 3 Amp+ Power Bank is very important here. The Raspberry Pi 500 Keyboard is very sensitive on the correct voltage and amperage ranges. I am trying to avoid plugging any projects (beyond the Raspberry Pi open-source friendly hardware), but when it comes to power banks I must be pickier. I've looked around and I have found that the Anker 20k 30W Power Bank works well with this project. It outputs the correct 5 Volts with 4.8 Amps total with a standard 5 Volts with 3 Amps. It has two USB-C connections to power both the keyboard and the monitor. The current power display is very useful given that the keyboard computer has no way to monitor the battery levels of the external power bank. The extra USB-C to USB-C Power Cable is needed to connect the keyboard to the power bank. One of those short 240W USB cables is a very good option for this, if not over kill.
The Lap Top Bag can be any bag that fits all of the parts. It just so happens that the Lap Gear has a special carry bag (currently sold exclusively at Sam's Club) that fits perfectly in the lap, can stand up the keyboard, monitor, and mouse, and can fit all of the parts inside a zipped enclosure.
The Velcro and Similar are more important than one might imagine. They are also far cheaper and are very hacker friendly. I've tried some Velcro cord keepers and found they are nice and low profile but lack any reasonably stickiness. I had to combine them with the industrial strength low profile Velcro. I also tried the generic plastic cable clamps. The cable clamps work great when also combined with the industrial strength low profile Velcro. Their biggest downside is that they are bulkier and removing them when packing is a very good idea.
The M.2 NVMe drive is necessary for a long lasting and better performing Raspberry Pi 500 Keyboard system.
The problem is that it needs to go somewhere.
This turns out to be easily solved.
The USB M.2 NVMe Enclosures are lightweight and relatively compact.
Add Velcro and stick it onto the back of the monitor and the problem is solved.